Food: Spears at the ready

The joy of Scottish-grown asparagus, one of many seasonal treats, is almost upon us. My passion for this vegetable verges on addiction: I just cannot get enough of it. I do deplore those who insist on buying asparagus year-round, imported from the other side of the world. The imported variety is tasteless in comparison with that grown in this country and my condemnation of those who consume it stems from the fact that it dulls the awareness for what asparagus really tastes like – and this, to me

We have several weeks when Scottish asparagus is in season, and we should make the very most of it. The jury is out in our family as to whether this amazing vegetable is better steamed or roasted; I love it both ways. Serve it with lemon butter, or with hollandaise sauce as a first course, or as an accompanying vegetable to a main course.

Risotto made with asparagus and scented with lemon is one of life's delights, either just as it is, or with steam-baked fish. Indeed, asparagus combines so well with fish, shellfish, meat and chicken in such a variety of ways.

In Germany and Austria, thick white stalks of asparagus are deemed superior to our own green variety. I have to say I prefer our green, but I ate delicious asparagus with smoked ham and a very good hollandaise sauce in Frankfurt Airport two years ago. Can you imagine Edinburgh or Glasgow yielding such a gastronomic treat?

ASPARAGUS AND LEMON RISOTTO

To maximise the flavour of asparagus it is worthwhile making asparagus stock for the risotto. Alternatively, use chicken stock or Marigold stock powder made up with boiling water.

SERVES 6

5 tablespoons olive oil

2 onions, skinned and neatly and finely diced

1lb/450g risotto rice, either Arborio or Carnaroli

1-2 fat cloves of garlic, skinned and diced

finely grated rind of 1 lemon (well washed and dried before grating)

salt to taste

1/4 pint/140ml dry white wine (Pinot Grigio is perfect for this)

1lb/450g asparagus, the tips cut off, the stalks snapped, then the tender upper ends of the stalks sliced into neat 1in/2.5cm pieces (retain the tough pieces for the stock)

about 20 grinds of the pepper mill

2oz/55g butter

1 heaped tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Parmesan cheese shavings

For the stock:

the tough lower ends of the asparagus stalks

2 pints/1.14 litres water

2 onions

1 bay leaf

a sprig of thyme

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

First, make the stock by putting the tough ends of the asparagus into a large saucepan with the water, the two onions, cut in half, the bay leaf, thyme, salt and black peppercorns. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid and simmer gently for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan and, over moderate heat, fry the diced onions until completely soft and turning golden at the edges, about five minutes. Stir in the rice, garlic and grated lemon rind and, still stirring, cook for three minutes. The aim is to coat each grain of rice with oil. Then stir in the white wine and leave till the wine has bubbled right down.

Strain the asparagus stock and add a little at a time to the rice. Stir, then leave to gently bubble away before adding more stock. Halfway through adding the stock, add the sliced asparagus stalks. They will cook as the remainder of the stock is added to the cooking risotto.

Just before adding the final amount of stock, add the asparagus tips. Beware too stodgy a risotto. The texture should be soft, not at all solid. Taste, season with salt and pepper and add the butter, stirring it through until it melts. The butter gives both flavour and a glossy sheen to the finished dish. Lastly, just before serving, stir through the finely chopped parsley. Serve with Parmesan cheese shavings.

ASPARAGUS AND WATERCRESS SALAD, WITH PANCETTA AND QUAIL EGGS

SERVES 4 TO 6

1lb/450g asparagus

4oz/110g pancetta

3oz/85g watercress, snipped with scissors (this makes eating it so much less messy)

12 quail eggs, boiled for three minutes then allowed to cool

For the dressing:

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1/2 teaspoon caster sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

15 grinds of the pepper mill

Snap each stalk of asparagus, discarding the tough ends. Cut the trimmed asparagus into 2in/5cm lengths and steam till just tender when stuck with a fork. Lift the asparagus from the steamer immediately it is cooked and allow to cool on a plate. Meanwhile, fry the pancetta in a sauté pan until crisp. Lift it from the pan on to several thicknesses of kitchen paper, to absorb excess fat.

Mix the dressing ingredients. Either arrange the snipped watercress on a single serving plate or, for a first course, on six smaller plates.

Put the steamed asparagus and pancetta into a bowl and thoroughly mix in the dressing. Arrange over the watercress. Finally, place the halved quail eggs around the asparagus and pancetta mixture.

This is very good served with the cheese and walnut biscuits from last week's recipes.

ASPARAGUS ROASTED WITH PISTACHIOS, WITH PARMA HAM

The nuts in this simple recipe give a complementary taste, as well as a satisfying texture contrast to the roast asparagus. This is good either as a first course or as a vegetable accompaniment to a main course served without the Parma ham.

Serves 6

2lb/900g asparagus

4oz/110g shelled pistachios

4 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons flaky salt, such as Malden

12 slices of Parma ham

Trim the tough ends from the asparagus stalks and discard. Place the stalks on a baking sheet, spreading them out so that they form a single layer. Strew the shelled pistachios over the stalks and brush with olive oil. Scatter the salt as evenly as you can over the top. Roast in a hot oven, 200C/400F/Gas Mark 6, for 15-20 minutes (the variation in potential cooking time allows for differing degrees of thickness of the asparagus stalks). Stick a fork into the thickest one – it should feel quite tender.

To serve, put two slices of Parma ham on each of six plates. Divide the roasted asparagus and pistachios between the servings while the asparagus is still warm.